Stem and handlebar combinations.

[lancelogan]

I currently have a carbon stem and alu bars in 26mm guise.

 

I'm quite ignorant when it comes to the pros and cons of having oversized as opposed to normal sized bars and stem.

 

Could some kind soul explain the pros and cons of having oversized as opposed to normal sized components and and the pros and cons of carbon over aluminium and vice versa please?

[Guest EPCC]

My limited knowledge about carbon bars are they are very expensive if you don't pay top dollar they are heavier than alloy and they can fracture more easily but they do look nice especially the look bar and stem bars dom 400 pounds regarding oversised bars I don't have a clue

[Tom Hill]

A fascinating insight Billy, matched only by my own ignorance on the subject. But yes the Look kit does look great!

Tom

[DavieB]

Tom,

 

Carbon bars ... not for me think I would be having palpatations every time I went over a bump. Could be wrong but I don't think most pros use them and as Billy says surprisingly heavy (probably carbon wrap over aluminium skeleton) if you don't pay top dollar.

 

As for oversize, think it's just natural progression, probably stiffer and more comfortable loads more choice as well if your in the market for a new set.

 

Davie

[Alan McLean]

Oversize bars are a bit stiffer which is good for sprinters but I prefer a bit of flex in standard bars.

 

It really doesn't matter on individual bikes. If you have more than one bike then it is a pain to have different diameter bars because swapping stems, lights, computers becomes much more difficult. Best to stick with one size throughout your garage.

 

Merits of carbon vs. alu is a PhD thesis. Anyone?

 

A

[martin]

would have to white carbon. anything else is so old fashioned, don't you think?

[P McDonald]

Lance

 

for what its worth

 

oversize a bit stiffer - you don't really notice,

Personally I go for aluminium after a bad crash when the guy in front of me attacked out the saddle with a flash magnesium stem some years ago - it snapped and caused a pile up,

carbon fails catastrophically and bars and stems can take a mighty whack if you hit a pot hole at speed,

 

[Jannza]

Bigger hands?

[KennyS]

Carbon bars? Where's Mr Howard?

[Colin H]

At the risk of tempting fate I would suggest that if the FSA Wing carbon bars I have on my good road bike can sustain the loadings I can impose on them (purely through strength and not weight of course) then should be suitable for most. Would definetly reccomend spending a bit on them though. Bear in mind thet the bike I have is top end carbon and cheaper makes will probably come with weight restrictions. That said I do make concious effort to avoid potholes as the front end of my bike makes a horrible popping sound akin to an inner tube blow out if you clatter through one big enough. Never really been sure if this is the bars, the forks flexing backwards and then snapping forwards or purely the brake levers "bouncing" and the sound reverberating through the frame.

 

I do find that the bontrager TT bars I have flex whilst trying to accelerate off the line up to speed. Always sort of plays in the back of my mind but then I' am guilty of pushing too big a gear from a dead start and have to rely on pulling on the bars an awful lot (maybe a learning thing to take in for this year there........if I ever get a chance to ride my bike again ). Once settled in the TT position though they are fine. I do however remember Chris Smart of the Couriers (at the time) snapping one of his extensions during a TT a couple of years ago on the same set of bars (all be it they were bought from EBay. Another thing there is don't buy carbon second hand unless you are FULLY aware of the history of the item).

 

I guess that if you are the type that needs the comfort of knowing that your kit is "bombproof" (like Davie was saying) then carbon is not the best way to go.

 

Colin

[Colin H]

Oh yeah, one other thing. Because of the very specific torque requirments for tightening carbon bars if you are of the cuddly build like me you will find from time to time when you can't avoid that pothole, and are on the hoods, the bars will slip round. Bit annoying that especially as when you reset them with a multitool you can't be sure of the torque you are using.

 

The more I think about it the more I' am tempted to sell everything I have that is carbon........

 

Colin

[williecosh]

Hi Lance,

 

The oversize bit of the question: I agree with Alan, the greater the diameter of the tubing the stiffer it will be (generally). Dependent on the quality of the alloy, the tube thickness can also be slightly thinner (and therefore perhaps lighter). The strength and stiffness is important, particulary at the point of the biggest 'bending moment' - where the bars are clamped by the stem - that's where they'll break!

 

I think good carbon bars are at least as strong and reliable as alloy although Colin's point about critical torque settings is good advice. I recently replaced my alloy bars with very good ITM carbon bars and I don't like them. The road vibrations transmit and give me sore arms. I am going to persist for a while, but I think I will give up on them eventually.

 

It is worth noting that some of the track sprinters (including Hoy) use STEEL bars. I have loaded two photo files I took at the the British Championships at Manchester in September; the first is Hoy with his steel bars waiting to start the Keirin. The second is Johnny in Round 2 of the Keirin (he is the only one with steel bars, which he prefers, and the rest have carbon). Most of the sprinters use very heavy-duty stems, e.g. Kore or Thomson, also. So, its probably what you feel best with and carbon is priced way over the top anyway.

 

Willie