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Curse of the crank


George
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I don't have any real experience of Hollowtech (though I bet lots of other folk on here do.) Could it just be that the pinch bolts haven't been torqued properly? From what I can see online they're meant to be torqued to 12-15nM, which is a lot for a bolt of that size. If you were to tighten them without a torque wrench I think there's a real risk that you'd leave them loose.

 

My Campag Ultra Torque cranks are secured with one bolt which holds the two crank arms together. Even when it's properly torqued it's prone to working loose unless you use threadlock on it.

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Cheers, Richard. I note that when I put the crank back on the bolts took a lot of tightening before I was satisfied they were secure.

 

The preload bolt is a rather tragic rubber bung that doesn't inspire much confidence but it's the same on all my other bikes & I've had no issues.

 

Hopefully it's just a matter of the bolts work loose under my immense wattage.

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George,

 

I suspect the preload bolt is designed to be rather "tragic" to prevent people "horsing" it up. So more design intent than crap design. It is sufficiently engineered to preload to the point your cranks will not freely turn.

 

You should achieve torque to the required settings no problem but make sure you tighten both in sequence a bit at a time, also ensure that the safety catch is located correctly - this catch should effectively stop the cranks coming off even if the bolts loosen.

 

I like the design and find the maintainability a vast improvement v's Campag.

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Hi George, I echo Davie. Not an original thought in my head. For the lh crank to fall off the bolts would have to be very loose, then the safety catch falls out then the preload plastic bolt would have to be forced off the axle. I suspect something went wrong in installation.  Maybe even buy a torque wrench. your preload bolt must be stripped/bent so suggest you get another.

 

Main message from maintenance night was that Shimano et al. have very clever engineers so we might as well follow their fitting instructions (all online) to the letter. Plastic bolt is a good example. I feel daft when I get round to actually reading the fitting instructions and realise how much time/watts/money I could have saved by doing it properly. Of course you learn a lot more by stripping threads, wrecking frames and Pringling wheels yourself but that is not really the point.

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Ordered a shimano 105 10 speed replacement crank cap from Evans (the black plastic thing)

 

It doesn't fit. It is much smaller in diameter than the original.

 

Does anyone have any idea or experience of differing diameters in these thingys?

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I recently made the same mistake too with 5600 series 105 (the last one with unhidden cables) i've not got round to getting the proper size yet because while the crank cap is smaller it still works as long as i dont tighten it too much.

 

Anyway here is the one i should have ordered http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-fc-6600-crank-arm-fixing-bolt-1g3-1100-prod14200/

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Part came. It's the same as the one I ordered previously. I now have 3 of these ill fitting plastic bung things.

 

Went to see if Willie Cosh had one. Nope.

 

The hunt goes on for the fabled larger diameter crank bung doodah.

 

I did buy a new winter frame while there tho.

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George

I ran my winter bike all last winter without said bung. And will do so this winter. For exact same reason that I could not get one!

Anyway you can literally just push the LH crank on whilst keeping an opposite push on the RH crank then nip it up. Check there is no play and off you go.

Looks a bit odd with no bung but hey ho.

:)

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