chung

Hi Gerard, I'm interested to see in what way you think the proposal is poorly thought through. This is a genuine question! I can understand the "cross section" diagram of their proposal but I don't have in depth knowledge of that particular stretch of the road though. I mean I have cycled down there on a number of occasions but are not really familiar with the surrounding. Cheers

Dear Dr. McLean, Please accept my sincere & deepest apologies for causing such offence. I promise this act of total disregard of cycling dress code will never happen again ...... ever! Better still, next time ride in front of me, so that way you won’t have to see it & I get to sit behind your wheel all day then! Ta

9.30am for me & looking forward to the soups :-) Cheers

I think this is more appropriate for me (as recommended by Martin Mul) :-) https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/campagnolo-belt-buckles-2

Ah, I see Robbie! :-) You probably now know that the cable running along the drive (right) side of the down tube is for the rear mech :-) So no cable should cross in your set up! I realised the “longish blob” is the cable adjuster for the front mech, new 11s Campag have it too. I was referring to the 2 smaller ones on the end of the cable directly on the HT, it must be the cable entries then, if that’s the case, then that’s quite a good place to enter IMO :-) Glad you got it sorted, nothing like a bit of TLC for your bikes! You know what they say - if you look after it, it’ll look after you ....... how very true! Cheers

The main thing for routing cables is to avoid abrupt sudden turns, try to creat a “natural” curve when running your cables. That way, you shifting/brakes will have a better chance of being smooth & slick! But some “modern” frames designs are a nightmare to achieve that, as the inherent frame design makes some of the cable entry/exit points impossible :-/ Cheers

Note my rear mech shifting cable swings & enters via the non-drive side (left) side & vice-versa for the front mech cable. When it goes down the DT, this is what will happen. Yours won’t!

Robbie, is that you doing bike maintenance in your work? :-) Have you change outer cable housing too in this instance? Looking at your picture with limited clearness, it seems like you're routing it the "normal way", your cable won't cross when inside the downtime & certainly won't either when it comes out of the BB heading towards the derailleurs, unless you've done something wrong. The way you have it set up has some draw backs in terms of the outer cable rubbing on your head tube especially when you turn the handle bars, causing the cable to slide around the HT & marking the paint job. I can't tell exactly what those little black "blobs" are along the other cables touching the HT, are those rubber grommets that you have used to rest on the frame so to prevent rubbing? Or are those actual cable "anchors" before the cables enters the down tube as part of the frames design? For some of my bike set-up, especially my new one, I tend to "cross" route the gear cables, as shown in the image below, this will prevent the cables from touching the frame's HT at all, even in extreme steering (which never really happens anyway) Make sure which ever way you route it, there's enough cable so that when you turn the handle bars, it's not restricting any movements! Good luck & is that a new bike? Cheers

Iain, please PM me a link to where you got it from could you? Cheers

Gerard, that’s why I’m punishing myself by paying obscene amount of money for this tool ......... can I feel less guilty now :-)

Thanks Iain!........... I think I'm beyond mad .................... wait till you see my "Italian" torque wrench set Man, that pump head looks the biz, it's not a Silca, is it? Have you got one yourself? Cheers

Finally, after riding Campagnolo for 13 years (started out with Shimano) I have at last bought their “proper” chain tool :-) It is a thing of beauty, cleverly designed, well made & lovely to use! Why didn’t I buy it earlier? ......... well, the price has a lot to do with it :-/ I suppose any chain tool can break a chain, but it’s the joining process that’s getting more & more delicate as chains gets narrower due to cassette sprocket numbers increases ........ now that 12speed is available & there’s even talk of 13 speed soon too ........... I don’t use “speed-links” or “quick-links” to join my chains, I always use the rivet supplied with the chain. Although I do carry some in my tool bottle in case of emergency out on the road. This tool is especially designed for Campag 11speed chains (but good for other speeds too) as it does the “peening” with absolute ease :-) I find it that it’s actually a pleasure to change chains now when using this tool :-)

Andy, Gav have also paid! Cheers

Andy, I’ve put in a reminder to them for you on our wee WhatsApp group. Some of them don’t frequent the Bunch forum much!